Turn Your Cell Phone Photos Into Art

Have you ever thought about turning YOUR cell phone photos into ART? First, you’ll need to know how to take the best cell phone photos possible! Check out these tips on taking better photos then visit Canvas Zoo and find out HOW to turn YOUR photos into one of a kind ART!
Want Better Cell Phone Pictures? Here’s a few tips!

Get Close to Your Subject

Due to low resolution, cell phone images tend to be small and subjects tend to be too tiny. So here’s what you need to do: Make sure your subject fills up your view finder. This will save having to zoom in on the subject when you edit your photos (we’ll get to that down the list!) Beware, getting too close to a subject can also create distortion and focusing issues.

Light Your Subject Well

Your image will be clearer if your subject is well lit. It is best to shoot outside or if shooting inside make sure the lights are on. This will add extra light to your shot. You want to keep in mind that artificial light impacts the color cast in your shots, so you may want to experiment with the white balance to fix it. Most cameras come with a built in flash which can add clarity to a shot, even if shooting outside. Avoid shooting into bright lights, as this will make your subjects silhouetted.

Be Still

When you’re steady, your images will be more clear. Make sure to be as still as possible when shooting in low light situations; where your camera will automatically select longer shutter speeds to make up for lack of light. Leaning against solid objects will help steady you. Cell phone cameras also have “shutter lag,” where there’s a time between when you “take” the picture to when it actually captures the picture. You need to hold the camera still a bit longer to make sure you get the shot and the shot isn’t taken as you’re lowering it away from your subject.

Avoid Using the Digital Zoom

Remember when we said “get close to your subject?” Do it. You maybe be tempted to zoom in on your subject, but if the zoom is a ‘digital zoom’ it will decrease the quality of your shot. You can always edit your photo later on your computer. Some cell phones have ‘optical zooms’ which are okay to use because they don’t enlarge your subject by enlarging pixels.

Don’t Throw Away ‘mistakes’

Sometimes our cell phone pics don’t look that great on our phones, but they may be great shots once we get them on the computer. If possible, save all photos until you can get them on your computer. They may come alive on a quality monitor.

Experiment with White Balance

Many cell phone cameras have an adjustable white balance, which allows you to change the color balance in your images based on shooting conditions. Play around with this feature to get an idea of how your shots are impacted by this. All phones are different – you may need to check your cell phone manual for more information.

Keep Your Lens Clean

Think of all the places your phone goes. They get dirty! Fingerprints are a common problem on cell phone camera lenses. Take a few seconds to wipe the lens with a soft cloth to remove the dirt! It makes a huge difference.

Take loads of Shots and Experiment

Take a ton of shots and experiment with different settings, modes, and compositions. Trash the ones you don’t want to keep and upload the keepers to your computer to edit. Try shooting from different angles and perspectives. You will get lots of interesting and fun shots!

Follow Rules of Composition, then break them.

Weren’t rules made to be broken? Know a few basic rules of composition, for example to ‘rule of thirds’ – don’t place your subject in the middle of your frame. Make sure the subject is a third of the way in the frame. Remember that cell phone photos are allowed to break all conventions. Some of the best shots we’ve ever seen break all rules. Remember to experiment!

Observe Camera Phone Etiquette

Don’t be sneaky of voyeuristic when trying to get a good picture with your cell phone. It’s best to ask permission to photograph strangers and be mindful of certain restrictions when using your camera in places like theaters and at concerts.

Use the highest resolution possible on your camera phone

The higher the resolution, the better the shot. Cell phone cameras often have sensors of under 1 megapixel in them, so keep in mind that the higher the resolution the larger the file size. The larger the file size, the longer it will take to send to someone.

Edit Images Later

Editing your photos on a computer will give you much better results. We know it can be fun to use your phone to edit your photos, bust for best results, edit on a computer. Take your shots in a higher color resolution to keep your options open for editing at a later time. You can always change a photo to black and white on your computer, but you can’t make a photo colored if shooting in black and white mode.

Have Fun

Like we said, rules were made to be broken. Follow the tips we’ve given, but most importantly have fun experimenting! Click here to put your photography skills to the test!

Did you know you can turn cell phone photos into art. Check out Canvas Zoo -

a fine art studio and printer that believes that people should surround themselves with art that makes their heart happy. Canvas Zoo is known nationwide for their quality photo restorations and canvas collages.

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5 Tips for Fantastic Holiday Photos

1. Make sure that your cameraʼs autofocus is actually in focus.

Most autofocus cameras require that you press the shutter button down
halfway to focus the camera. If you just press the shutter button all the
way down, the camera may not have time to achieve sharp focus. Most
cameras have an illuminated dot in the viewfinder or on the LCD screen
that indicates whether or not the camera is in focus. A red dot or blinking
dot while the shutter button is pressed halfway means that the camera is
not focussed. You might be too close to your subject or your subject may
not have enough contrast in it for the camera to determine where to set
the focus.

2. Donʼt use the built-in flash (unless you have to).

On-camera flash is harsh and very unflattering. The on-camera flash
casts dark shadows which look bad and unprofessional. Instead, turn on
all the lights in the room or bring your subject into a well lit area.

3. Donʼt put peoplesʼ heads in the center of the picture.

Aiming the camera so that a subjectʼs head is in the center of the picture
leaves a lot of space above the head. This empty space draws oneʼs
attention away from the person and is distracting. Compose the picture
(aim the camera) so that the personʼs head is near the top of the picture.

4. Fill the picture frame with your subject.

Many people take all their pictures with the subject (a person, pet or
object) occupying only a small area of the picture. Move in closer or use
the zoom so that your subject fills the picture area.

5. Be proactive.

Great shots are usually made, not simply taken. Arrange people and
props to make more interesting photos. Take some posed shots and
some candid shots. If youʼre not getting great candid shots, be proactive.
Get the people together talking or doing some activity in a well lit area.
Get yourself into a good position to get the great candid photos.

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The Rule of Thirds

The rule of thirds is one of the most basic principles of photography and an understanding of it can greatly improve the quality and composition of your photographs.

The human eye has natural tendencies–where it tends to focus, where attention is first given–and this affects how people place importance on the subjects in a photograph. Imagine a grid drawn over a photograph, splitting it into nine areas. The four spots where these lines intersect are where the eye tends to give the most important, especially the starting on the left side (the opposite is true in countries where they read right to left.) The next most important places are along the lines themselves.

Understanding this, you can frame your shots to place your subjects and the most visually interesting elements along these points and lines. Many modern cameras can display this grid in their LCD screen or view finder so you can use it as a guide. With training you can simply visualize the lines as you take the photographs.

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Photography Terms Glossary

Ambient – ambient light is the available or surrounding light

Aperture – the amount of light being let in through the lens (lens opening) see f-stop

ASA – a film speed rating similar to an IOS rating

Bracket – to over and then under expose from the indicated camera settings. This technique provides several different exposures from which one may choose the best negative for printing.

Burn in – to darken a specific area of a print by giving it additional printing exposure

Contrast – the difference between light and dark values. An image that is only pure black and white with no shades of gray is said to have high contrast. Images with many shades of gray and no black or white are low contrast

Density – the amount (or thickness) of silver on the film or paper. Over exposed negatives are dense (thick) with silver. When maximum density is reached the negative or print is as black as possible. This maximum density is called D-MAX.

Depth of Field – the distance range between the nearest and farthest points that are in acceptably sharp focus. Depth of field is altered by 1. aperture size 2. length of lens 3. distance to subject

Dodge – to lighten an area of a print by shading it during part of the printing exposure

Emulsion – a light sensitive coating applied to photographic films or papers. It consists of silver halide crystals and other chemicals suspended in gelatin

Fill Light – a source of illumination that lightens shadows cast by the main light and thereby reduces the contrast in a photograph

f-stop – also referred to as f- number. A number indicating the size of the lens opening. It is determined by dividing the focal length of a lens by the diameter of the aperture when measured in millimeters.

Grain – the clumping of silver in the negative that gives the image a “sandy” or “speckled” appearance. Films with low ISO numbers will have less clumping and therefore finer grain.

ISO – (international standards organization) a numerical rating that describes the sensitivity of a film to light. The ISO rating doubles as the sensitivity of the film doubles. rating combines the ASA (once standard in US) and the DIN (European standard) an example would be ISO 100/20*

Panning – to follow the motion of a moving object with the camera this will cause the object to look sharp and the background blurred

Reciprocity – reciprocity law – the relationship between length of exposure and aperture size. When equivalent exposures are required, an increase in one will be balanced by a decrease in the other. For example, doubling aperture size will be balanced exactly by halving the exposure time. The reciprocity law fails with very short or very long exposures.

Stop Down – to use a smaller lens opening

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What is Depth of Field?

Depth of field is the amount of space in your images that is before and beyond the point of focus. The depth of field lets you determine if your subject and the background can be in sharp focus together. Though a camera can only technically focus on a single point in space, the depth of field determines how much of the picture is within an “acceptable focus” for the human eye.

The desired depth of field differs depending on the type of photography you are doing. For example, with a landscape you will likely want a large depth of field so that most of the scene appears in focus, whereas with a portrait, a smaller depth of field keeps the model as the focal point and lessens any distractions in the background.

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How to Eliminate Camera Shake for Good

It can often seem like a mystery as to why an image came out blurry. The most common cause for blurry images is camera shake which basically means that the camera moved during your shot. This movement can be very small and still create blurry images. Let’s explore the four main causes of camera shake.

Holding the Camera Incorrectly

Camera shake can be reduced by holding your camera correctly. Whether you use a point and shoot or SLR this hold is essentially the same.
• Hold the camera close to your body
• Tuck your elbows in against the side of your body
• Keep a firm but relaxed grip on the camera
• Stand with your legs approximately a shoulder-width apart
The goal of this is to stabilize your body and the camera so that the camera is as still as possible when shooting.

Common Technique Errors
There are some common mistakes during shooting that can increase camera shake. Avoid these common errors and your images will be much clearer.
• Stabbing the button instead of pressing it
• Moving the camera from you eye quickly after a shot instead of holding it at your eye a moment after the shutter is complete

Slow Shutter Speed
While slow shutter speed is generally necessary in night photography, it is a huge cause of blurry images. Slow shutter speed is generally considered the greater of 1/60 of a second or anything under the focal length of the lens. For example, if you are using a 300mm lens, a shutter speed of 1/300 of a second may still be too slow for a clear image. However, if you are using a 28mm lens, 1/60 of a second is considered slow. Slow shutter speeds are a problem because the human hand is not steady. Large lenses such as 300mm increase the weight on the hand and create shake. Using a high shutter speed decreases the amount of time of the exposure and the amount of shake that can be transferred to the film.

Unstable Support
Setting the camera on an unstable support for long exposure times is a very common cause of camera shake. While using a remote release is a great way to reduce shake from support issues, there are some supports that will never be stable.
• Overextended Tripods
• Vehicles That are Running
• Boats and Floating Docks
• A Friend’s Back

Find a stable support, such as a soft backpack set on a flat rock, and use a remote release to overcome camera shake from unstable support.

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The Basics of Photographing Your Artwork

Your time on the screen will be very short, perhaps only a few seconds. Make the most of that brief time to communicate the quality of your work.

Backgrounds

  • Keep backgrounds simple. Don’t use busy textures or outdoor scenes behind your items. The object itself should stand out clearly.
  • Shoot Against Unobtrusive Backgrounds
  • Your artwork is best shot against a plain background that will not distract from the piece.
  • Use the same background for all of your slides.
  • Keep white space to a minimum – it can be distracting. Too much white space can draw a juror’s eye away from your work.

Perspective

  • Images must be sharp and well composed.
  • Use Proper Angles
  • When photographing your work, use angles that present the piece in a straightforward manner. Avoid shooting at wide or slanted angles, as this will distort the perspective of your artwork and cause it to appear wider in areas where it is not.
  • Choose an angle that adds a degree of dynamism to the item, but don’t go overboard.
  • Come in close. Fill the frame, but don’t crop the item.
  • Work that fits the format of the slide or image has an advantage over work that does not. For example, a very long thin item will look small in a large rectangular space, while an object that naturally fits the space will appear larger and show more detail.
  • The eye will be drawn to the brightest and sharpest parts of the image. Use that to your advantage. Be sure that there is a satisfying amount of detail in those areas.
  • Fill Up the Slide
  • Use the full space of the slide to present your work so that as much detail can be observed as possible.

Exposure

  • Images should have a full tonal range. Watch for overexposed (washed out) or underexposed (dark or muddy) areas.
  • Don’t let shadows obscure the details. Use them as a means of producing depth or showing texture.
  • Be Mindful of Lighting Conditions
  • Natural light (overhead sunlight) usually works best to capture all the details of your work. If none is available, photograph your work using photo bulbs (ask your local camera shop for details), which preserve color detail.
  • Avoid using florescent or common household incandescent bulbs, which can distort the actual color properties of your work.
  • Use the correct film or digital camera setting for your lighting. Incorrect settings will result in images with false color.

Selecting the Group

  • Choose consistency over variety. Avoid confusing the juror with too great a range of styles or techniques.
  • Choose slides that complement each other, and have a flow, or relationship with each other.
  • Look at the interaction between your images. If possible have your first slide introduce the group and the last slide summarize the group. This may help the juror stay focused on your group of images.

Models

  • Models can have a strong influence a juror’s initial reaction to your work. Work with a professional, if possible.
  • An artful crop can draw attention to your work and away from the model, but it also can be distracting. Use caution.
  • Use models when photographing wearable art only.

Detail views

  • Detail slides can be useful if a close-up view will give the juror a greater appreciation and understanding of the quality of the workmanship
  • Detail views do count as part of your slide total, so use them only if you feel it is absolutely necessary.

General

  • Never leave tags or identifying labels on your items.
  • Don’t include a ruler or other item for scale unless specifically instructed to do so.
  • One item per slide is standard. If you have a very good reason to group items, keep the number to four or less. Don’t submit more than two group slides.
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Tips for Applying to Juried Shows

The Digital eJury System
Benefit from Understanding the Process

For many years, juries relied on slide projectors to view the work of potential exhibitors. Sets of images would be projected in a dark room while descriptions were read over the background hum of projector cooling fans. This process had many inherent problems. Some images might be more in focus than others. Color temperature and brightness of bulbs in the projectors could vary widely. The pace of viewing and judging was necessarily brisk, with each set of images being shown for a very limited period of time. The ability to review and reflect on the work by individual jurors was hampered by the inflexibility of the multi projector system. As an artist, your only opportunity to make an impression was within the few seconds your work was on screen.

Now, a fully digitized system, pioneered by Juried Art Services, provides many advantages, both for jurors and show applicants. For applicants, understanding how the system works and how your images will be displayed will help you make the most of the time a juror spends reviewing your work.

Understanding the Digital eJury System
Images are presented to the juror on a single screen along with a brief description of the artwork . With the click of a mouse, a larger view of each image is displayed, along with your detailed description of the individual piece. Each juror can carefully examine the details and read the descriptions.

Quality Images Make all the Difference

In spite of the shift to digital imaging, the basic elements of a successful submission have not changed. Excellent images have always been a key part of being accepted to any competitive event. Unless you have exceptional photographic skills, you should hire a professional photographer who has experience in shooting slides of work like yours. Lighting techniques, composition, and choice of background and are just three of the variables that need to be controlled to maximize the power of your slides. It makes little difference if the images are created on film or with a digital camera; the same rules apply in both cases.

Preparing Your Images

Most juried art competitions allow you to send your slides by mail. They may also offer scanning at an additional fee. However, artists who are more familiar with computer technology may choose to optimize their digital images themselves. This allows you to maintain control over the quality of your images. For example, you can take the opportunity to eliminate problems like dust and dirt. You might work with the Healing Brush and Cloning Tool in Photoshop, or a similar image-editing program.

Precise control of color and tone can be more difficult. It requires an understanding of the relationship between the input device (scanner or digital camera) and output device (the monitor on the juror’s desk). Color-managed workflow is a fairly complex topic, but we have listed some key elements you can use to optimize your images for the Juried Art Services system. To take advantage of these tips, you should be technically oriented and somewhat skilled with computer use.

  • Always begin with the highest quality original available. Don’t scan slide dupes; they have excessive contrast and diminished tonal range.
  • Evaluate the scans on a calibrated monitor and optimize the image to the size and format required by the competition. Just because a photographer owns a digital camera, don’t assume that s/he is expert in use of Photoshop. If you want to have your images optimized in Photoshop, consult a Photoshop expert. If you have your work digitally photographed, create your images at the highest possible resolution for the camera. Request a copy of all images in an uncompressed format, like TIF or RAW, which can then be used in your image editing software program.
  • Save your final files in JPEG format. No matter what format or method you use to prepare your digital images, the eJury System accepts only JPEG files.

  • The Importance of Written Descriptions

    The eJury application includes space for you to describe aspects of your process that might not be evident from a quick look at your images. Even the best photograph might fail to reveal subtle detail in a large piece. To help you direct the juror’s attention, a 1000-character description is displayed with your body of work. A few well-chosen words can draw the juror’s eyes to unique elements that might otherwise be overlooked. You also include a description of up to 300 characters with each individual image, displayed when a juror examines the enlarged version of your work.


    eJury System Technical Details

    Jurors view your work on monitors in 24-bit color at 1024×768 resolution. The system gamma is set to Windows 2.2. The viewing template (See screen shot) displays all images at an initial size of 300 pixels wide. When a juror wishes to see more detail, they can click on an image and will be presented with an enlarged view. Enlarged images are sized at 700 pixels wide and share the screen with the detailed description, which can be up to 300 characters.

    Conclusion
    To be successful in juried art competitions, submit excellent images of your work along with clear, effective descriptions. Understanding the digital elements of the process will aid in your communication with the jurors and help your work receive the recognition it deserves.

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Photoshop Selection Tools

Selection: A part of an image selected for manipulation of any type—duplication
in a layer, color correction, deletion, rotation, and so on. The selection consists of
the selected pixels. The selection tools are located in the tool palette, by default positioned on the left side of your screen.

The Rectangular Marquee tool draws square or rectangular selection
borders.

The Elliptical Marquee tool draws round or elliptical selection borders.

The Lasso tool draws freehand selection borders. This tool is great for
making very precise selections.

The Polygonal Lasso tool draws straight-edged segments of a selection
border. You can create as many segments as you need to draw a selection border.

The Magnetic Lasso tool draws a selection border that automatically
snaps to edges you drag over in the photo. This makes it easy to draw precise selection borders.

The Magic Wand tool selects pixels of similar color with one click. You
specify the color range, or tolerance, for the tool’s selection. Use the Magic Wand tool when you have an area of similar colors, like a blue sky.

The Selection Brush tool makes selections two ways. You can paint over the area you want to select in Selection mode, or you can paint over areas you don’t want to select using a semi-opaque overlay in Mask mode. You can first make a rough selection with a marquee tool, and then fine-tune your selection with the Selection Brush tool, adding to or subtracting from the selection by switching between Selection mode and Mask mode.

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Examples of Lighting in Photography

The color, direction, quantity, and quality of the light you use determines how your subjects appear.

Outdoor Lighting

Changing daylight can alter the apparent shapes, colors, tones, and forms of a scene. The color of sunlight changes most rapidly at the beginning and end of the day. Strong color changes also occur during storms, haze, or mist and on blue wintery days.
Strong, direct sunlight is “hard” because it produces dark, well-defined shadows and brilliant highlights, with strong modeling of form. Sunlight is hardest on clear summer days at noon. Strong sunlight makes strong colors more brilliant, but weak colors pale.
Sunlight is diffused by haze, mist, and pollution in the air. This diffused or reflected light is softer; it produces weak, soft shadows and dull highlights. Directionless, diffused sunlight is often called “flat” lighting because it produces fine detail but subdues or flattens form. Weak, directionless sunlight provides vibrant, well-saturated colors.

Frontlighting

This is the type of lighting produced when the light is on the front of the subject and behind the photographer. Over the shoulder lighting produces a flattened effect, doing nothing to bring out detail or provide an impression of depth. The human eye sees in three dimensions and can compensate for poor lighting. A photograph is only two-dimensional; therefore, to give an impression of form, depth, and texture to the subject, you should ideally have the light come from the side or at least at an angle.

Side Lighting

Interesting effects can be achieved by changing the angle of the light falling on your subject. As you turn your subject, change the camera viewpoint, or wait for the sun to move, the light falls more on one side, and more shadows are cast on the opposite side of the subject. For pictures in which rendering texture is important, side lighting is ideal. Pictures made with side lighting usually have harsh shadows and are contrasty. To lighten the shadows and reduce the contrast, you may want to use some type of reflector to direct additional skylight into the shadow areas or use fill-in flash, whichever is more convenient.

Backlighting

When the sun is in front of the photographer, coming directly at the camera, you have what is referred to as backlighting; that is, the subject is backlit. This type of lighting can be very effective for pictures of people outdoors in bright sunlight. In bright sunlight, when subjects are front-lighted or even sidelighted, they may be uncomfortable and squint their eyes. Backlighting helps to eliminate this problem. Backlighting may also require the use of a reflector or fill-in flash to brighten up the dark shadows and improve subject detail. Backlighting is also used to produce a silhouette effect. When you use backlighting, avoid having the sun rays fall directly on the lens (except for special effects). A lens hood or some other means of shading the lens should be used to prevent lens flare.

Existing Light

Existing light photography, sometimes called available or natural light photography, is the making of pictures by the light that happens to be on the scene. Photography by existing light produces pictures that look natural. Pictures made indoors by existing daylight are pleasing to the viewer, because of the soft diffused light and the squint-free expression of your subjects. Open all the window drapes in the room to get the largest amount of light possible. Pose your subject to allow the daylight to fall on the front or side of their face.Try not to pose your subject in a position where too much of the facial features are in shadow, unless you are trying for a special effect, such as a silhouette.

Fluorescent Lighting

Most color pictures made without a filter under fluorescent light have an overall greenish appearance. Used correctly, fluorescent light has some advantages over other types of available light. A room illuminated by fluorescent lamps is usually brighter and more evenly lighted than a room illuminated by tungsten lamps. This higher level of light makes it easier to get enough exposure for your existing light photography and helps record detail that may have been lost in the shadow areas with other types of existing light. When photographing people, however, fluorescent lighting often causes dark shadows under the subject’s eyes. These shadows cause the eyes to appear dark and sunk in.

Pictures Outdoors at Night

Outdoor night scenes usually include large areas of darkness broken by smaller areas of light from buildings, signs, and streetlights.
Many buildings look rather ordinary in daylight, but at night, they are often interestingly lighted.

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